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Equipelle
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The Problem
"Oily skin" is a blanket terms which, in general, means an excessive activity of the sebaceous glands.
More precisely, this sebaceous hypersecretion may determine a tendency to acne or seborrhoeic skin. - Seborrhoeic skin is slighlty glossy, oily to the touch and often shows dilated pores with intensive persipartion. The sebaceous glands are more active than usual and produce a fluid kind of sebum. Unlike normal sebum, this type shows a predominance of saturated fat acids over unsaturated ones, which deprives it of its self-sterilizing features ad hydrophilism.
- Also acneic skin is characterized by hypertrophia of the sebaceous glands and by excessive secretion. In this case, however, the sebum is of a waxy type and there is increased keratinization of the epidermis. The sebum and the excess keratinous material build up in the piliferous-sebaceous follicles and cause inflamation of the follicle and of the surrounding connective tissue. In this way, the skin becomes asphyxial and hyperkeratotic developing black spots and a marked tendency to acne. Therefore, unlike seborrhoea, acne is a chronic inflamatory disorder which concentrates on the face, the chest and the back. Acne is characterized by a number of lesions which appear simultaneously (comedoes, papulas, pustules, nodules, cysts) and for this reason, classical acne is known as "vulgar polymorphous acne".
The causes which lie at the base of acne or an impure skin depend on different factors: hereditary ones, hormonal, metabolic and digestive ones, neurovegetative ones). In most cases, especially during adolescence, acne appears as a result of an anomalous interaction between the sebaceous glands and the androgenous hormones in circulation. However, this does not mean that acne is the result of an upset balance: the excessive and anomalous production of sebum is connected with an abnormal response of the sebaceous glands to the androgenous hormones which are normally present in the body. These are male hormones but - to a lesser extent - are also found in women. About 70% of adolescents suffer from different acne-related disorders at least once.
However, acne often appears in adulthood, without any warning signs earlier in life.
In that case, acne is attributed to digestive disorders or to slight hormonal dysfunctions, both of which may be the result of particularly stressful situations or of menstruation anomalies in women.
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The Solution
The innovative elaboration of the EQUIPELLE line has taken to the formulation of a self-contained programme to be used by the beautician for the successful treatment of problems related to impure skins, seborrhoea and acne and aimed at the satisfactory elimination of these disorders. The line includes professional treatments supported by a wide range of products for home self-care. The compound of active substances which produce these surprising results is based on the combination of vegetable extracts well-known for their purifying, lenitive, antiseptic and astringent properties and an active principle yielded by one of the most recent discoveries in modern cosmetics: a soluble derived substance of azelaic acid. Azelaic acid has been used for about twenty years as an effective remedy to acne, seborrhoea and as a depigmentant in various medical products for use in dermatology. The high fusion point (over 100� C) of this substance has prevented it from being used in cosmesis and, for this reason, it is regarded by the dermatologist as a drug for use in the case of skin problems. The most advanced cosmetic research succeeded in obtaining a water-soluble solution of azelaic acid which makes it easy to incorporate this substance in a number of cosmetic forms. The efficacy of the products of the EQUIPELLE line is based on the beneficial action of this active principle and may be considered "cosmoceutics", that is, cosmetics used for therapeutic purposes. Azelaic acid is produced by a fungus, the oval Pytirosporum. Biochemical experiments conducted on azelaic acid brought to light its beneficial enzymatic action on the skin. It inhibits thyroxinase, the enzyme which transforms thyroxine, an amino acid into dopaquinone and then into melanin after a number of complex biochemical reactions. Azelaic acid, therefore, has the function of a depigmentant. It also inhibits 5-alpha-reductase, an enzyme which turns testosterone into 7-dehydrotestosterone, which is -in turn- a hormone stimulating the production of sebum in the follicle. As a result, azelaic acid is also a sebum-regulating and sebum-adjusting substance. It also has an antibacterial effect, even against Propionibacterium acnes, the microorganism which accounts for acne-related infections. The water-soluble form of azelaic acid - a real innovation in cosmesis - made it possible to extend the use of this functional beneficial substance to various cosmetic forms, while still maintaining its functions and efficacy unaltered.
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Cosmetic Features
Azelaic acid is produced by a fungus, Pytirosporum ovale. It inhibits the effects of thyroxinase, the enzyme which transforms thyroxine into melanin, thus exercising a depigmenting action. It inhibits 5-alpha- reductase, an enzyme which transforms testosterone in 7-dehydrotestosterone, a hormone stimulating the production of sebum in the follicle. Azelaic acid has, therefore, a remarkable sebum-regulating and sebum-balancing action. Its antibacterial action makes it effective even against Propionibacterium acnes, the microorganism which accounts for acne-related infections. The sebum-balancing compound (yeast, amino acids and vitamins belonging to the B group) together with lysine carboxymethyl cysteine ( a combination of cysteine amino acids and lysine) have the following effects: they regulate sebaceous secretion through their 5-alpha-reductase inhibiting action they produce an antiseptic effect in the epidermis, fighting the bacterial proliferation which characterizes impure skins, they have an astringent and opacifying effect on the follicles, thus improving the appearance of oily skin. Alphabisabol is obtained from essential oil of Matricaria Chamomilla, which is traditionally noted for its lenitive, emolient, refreshing action. Besides, it is very effective as a filtering agent for UV rays. Azulene is an active principle to be found in the various essences obtained from Camomile, Achillea and Artemisia, and is responsible for their characteristic blue colour. It is particularly effective as: an anti-inflamatory / a decongestionant / a healing agent The glycolic extracts from Chinaroot (from the bark of different types of chincona) and of Tormentil (from the rhyzome of Potentilla tormentilla) have marked toning and astringent properties. Following topical application, they reduce the follicle lumen and help reduce the unpleasant disorder of "dilated pores". Farnesol (contained in the essential oils from lemon, citronella, etc) and the essential oil from lemon are two proven bacteriostatic agents which act on those microorganisms responsible for acneic infections without upsetting the normal skin bacterial flora. Menthyl Lactate (obtained from the reaction between lactic acid and menthol) as well as mint essential oil are characterized by the following actions: refreshing / decongesting / deodorizing The Extract from Fomes Officinalis ( Mushroom extract) is obtained from a fungus of the basidium mycetes type, commonly known as Polyporus officinalis, which is cultivated in Russia. Its action on the skin is: astringent / toning / moisturizing As a result of the above effects, it is particularly beneficial to impure and oily skin as it reduces the follicle lumen, mitigates the problem of "dilated pores" and eliminates glossy areas, thus improving the general appearance and the aesthetic quality of this type of skin. Glycirrethinic acid is extracted by hydrolysis from the root of liquorice and is particularly appreciated in the field of cosmesis on account of these properties: anti-inflamatory healing In cosmesis, it is used as a decongestioning and epithelizing active principle even at very low doses because it is readily tolerated by the skin.
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Equipelle Programme Based on Azelaic Acid
The Equipelle programme based on azelaic acid is a self-contained treatment founded on the most advanced cosmetic research. It is intended to restore balance, well-being and brightness to seborrhoeic, impure skins suffering from acne. In its soluble form, azelaic acid - a very innovative cosmetic substance- in conjunction with other functional substances of vegetable and marine origin, makes the skin transparent, evenly smooth, and fresh, as it fights directly the causes which underlie this skin disorder. Indeed, it restores the upset sebaceous secretion it has an astringent effect on the follicles mitigating the problem of "dilated pores" it encourages the involution of foruncles, comedoes and inflamation , it moisturizes and provides relief in the of reddish areas , it refreshes and imparts pleasant tone to the epidermis , it clarifies pigment spots and scar-marks, making the skin clear and bright. The Equipelle Programme is made up of 8 professional sessions to be had every 5-7 days and also includes a highly effective home self-care section which is based on daily use of Setted� and Equipelle Crema whose formulations are made active thanks to the active compound composed of azelaic acid and an innovative molecule, metacrylic ester, which absorbs excess sebum.
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